Crowntail Betta

The Crown Tail Betta has a striking, elaborate tail that differentiates it from other Bettas.

Betta Smaragdina

Betta smaragdina, or the Emerald green betta is a species of Betta. They are anabantoids, and breathe air.

Betta Splendens Dragon

features a rich strong base colour, often red, with the scales on the main part of the body a pale iridescent, sometimes copper colour.

Betta Spawning

Spawning Betta.

Betta Mahachai

The way to identify the Mahachai has green or blue gill plates with no wild spots on the tail rays.

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Betta Imbellis colony - Video

Betta imbellis (Peaceful Betta) can peaceful live with other species.





Monday, August 26, 2013

Female Betta


Female betta fish have shorter fins compare with male, and with less vibrant bright colors. But at this moment with many genetic created, some female betta fish can display as much colorful than male.  

Normally when females betta breeding she will display horizontal stripes or a vertical lines across their body when they flare with male betta. Mean they are ready for egg laying.  
Female betta fish are raised in large tanks along with other females. So female Bettas are unaffectedly used to a type of community living and are much more resistant of having other female bettas in the tank.   
   
Keep in mind that this is normal behavior of female bettas compare with male a bit aggressive. Keeping male and female together in the community tank is not a good idea but can work sometimes. As long they were been feed well with many other fishes around them sometimes the betta male won’t aggressive and if the male came from the same group when they grow up together.  

Female seen to be very easy to sexing them. When you will notice a egg sticking at the bottom of the abdomen side. Male is opposite. Sometimes some female with colorful look and with a bigger body but as long they have the white dot sticking at bottom it is a female betta.



Sexing the female betta


Spoting the female betta.   



Sunday, April 28, 2013

Betta Disease: Bacterial Infections



Prevention: Bacterial infections can happen for many reasons, but bad water quality is a happy environment for bacteria to grow in. Contact with dead fish can spread them too, though your bettas shouldn't have that problem unless they're in a community tank.

Symptoms: Betta may have clamped fins, lay at bottom or at surface, not eat, lose its color, turn gray, barely swim around. In more advanced cases, its body

may start developing red patches, open sores and all kinds of nasty looking stuff. Different bacteria affect fish differently. Some will attack the internal organs while others prefer to munch on the skin.

Treatment: The term "bacterial infection" is very broad, and so you'll have to treat a side range of possible infections. Do a full water change. Clean filter and filtering system if you have them and remove any uneaten food rotting. Isolate any bettas with symptoms if in a community tank.

You should also treat the whole tank. There is a wide variety of antibiotics available for fish. Remove carbon from your filters before you add the medications: the carbon would otherwise absorb all the medication. Use Tetracycline or Ampicillin combined with Fungus Eliminator or whatever you find at your store (look for “broad spectrum” antibiotics, though a good one is Kanamycin if you can find some). You can learn more about all of these in the First Aid section. Follow manufacturer’s instructions and don’t stop the treatment until your bettas are well again. Dose carefully and to the correct proportions, and you'll have to redose after you do water changes, which you should do every three days or so.

Betta disease: Fungal Infections




Currently on the Board of the aquarium often see the topics on diseases of betta fish, many of which are deadly dangerous fungal diseases of betta fish, damage to the aquarium. Please share with your readers some information about this disease. Fungal infection is a common disease common in tropical fish. Because the spores of the fungus is found in the aquarium, these spores will enter and infect fish when the fish are stressed (stress), injury or disease. Poor water quality can cause increased fungal infections on fish in the tank.

Most farmers recognize the signs of a fungal infection from the outside. Most of the lesions are white (smooth, hairy) characterized and commonly referred to as “cotton wool disease cotton wool disease“. When fish severe fungal infections, yeast infections can trace grayed out, even red.

But fortunately, most of the fungus only attacks on the outside of the betta fish tissue and the fungus usually occurs when fish become infected before or wounded, and that explains why the betta fish gets mushrooms need to second part of the treatment. It is just to treat wounds, enhance the health of individuals, combined with fungal treatment. However, there are several species of fungi will infect the internal organs of the fish and then will affect fish health without timely intervention. Fungi are present in most of the aquarium, but to increase the infection conditions for fish in the tank include:

- Poor quality of the water tank.

- Poor tank hygiene.

- Dead fish in the tank or the decomposition of organic matter in the tank.

- Personal injury, older individuals or individuals with other diseases.

The aquarium is often a fungal infection to be checked and thoroughly cleaning the tank, water purification systems, water quality. The tank water quality is good, the fish rarely mushrooms.



Some common fungal disease in fish include:

Fungus cotton wool – Cotton wool disease: 

Cotton wool fungus disease is a general term used to refer to the fungus infection on the skin, fins and fish’s mouth. The white fungus (looks like cotton) usually develop in the areas where fish have been infected before, where the parasite attacked and injured betta fish. These pathogenic fungi often the Saprolegnia and Achyla species. Many other fungi can cause disease and sometimes can find many types of fungi cause disease in fish.

To treat this disease, we can bathe in salt water or use of antifungal drugs containing phenoxyethanol. In some cases the need to treat all the fish in the tank, but if you have some sick individual may own these individuals to treatment. The use of antifungal and antibacterial containing Gentian Violet to apply the stain fungi to betta fish is also a good choice of treatment.

Bring rot – rot Gill:

This fungal disease is not common, but when sick, very dangerous for betta fish and betta fish die if not treated. When infected with this fungus, betta fish abnormal respiratory signs such as breathing air rush to get. The motor bearing and leaves stuck together by mucus and on the appearance of spots. The cause of this disease is due to mushrooms Branchiomyces, can take to rot away. This disease usually occurs when fish are stressed that the main reason is high ammonia or nitrate in the tank. When fish get sick, the treatment is difficult and often unsuccessful. In some cases, can be cured by bathing phenoxyethanol in the long run and increase the amount of oxygen in the tank. So good aquarium care regime is best measures to prevent this.

Fungal infections – Systemic fungal infections:

Fungal infections in tropical fish disease is very rare and is generally very difficult to diagnose and treat. As a result, there is not much knowledge about this disease. A fungus can cause infection this is Icthyophonus. Infected fish very weak, swimming, activities and significantly less food. Betta fish live in water less and fickle susceptible to this disease. However, the disease can be successfully treated by bathing and soaking the fish in blue malachit drugs.

Most farmers aquarium or are faced with fungal infections when this is not the other. Most fungal diseases are successfully treated if detected early and treated properly. There is an obvious thing everyone knows is developing fungi or when fish have poor health, or injury, particularly the aquarium care less. So when your betta fish fungal infection, then you check the quality and make sure that the water in your tank is good, safe and natural for your betta fish farming.


Saturday, April 27, 2013

Betta Disease: External Parasites



 It is possible for a betta fish to contract external parasites in the pet store or from the foot that they are being fed or from other fish being introduced to the tank. It is usually possible to see parasites by looking closely at your fish. In the case of some parasites like anchor worms, you will have no problem spotting them. A fish that has external parasites will show symptoms of needing to scratch itself against anything it can find and it will not behave as it normally would showing signs of being uncomfortable in its tank.

If your betta fish shows signs of external parasites you will want to change out 70% of your fish tank’s water. Changing out a percentage of your fish’s water will help to reduce the population of the parasites and their eggs but it will not remove them all completely so it is important to treat the remaining water. After replenishing the water you will want to treat it with BettaZing, a product designed to clean the water and kill the remaining parasites and their eggs.



Another option:

Do a full water change, and add aquarium salt*. Look for a medication that kills parasites.
Continue treatment every third day until gone.

*TIP: If you use aquarium salt, 100% sea salt is pretty much the same and works just as well. Any salt as long as it does NOT contain Iodine is fine. U can use rock salt, but make sure it is dissolved before use - you don't want your Betta swallowing it.


Betta Disease: Internal Parasites



Internal parasites are usually introduced to the fish through food--some are often found on live foods and others can hitch a ride on dry foods as eggs. Always carefully rinse any live foods and make sure you get them from a reputable source. Dry foods should be kept sealed and in cool, dry areas--such as a refrigerator. Diagnosing internal parasites can be difficult if you don’t know what to look for, often parasitized fish are treated for bacteria and end up in worse shape than they started out in. One of the key differences between an infected fish and a parasitized fish is that they tend to get sick much more slowly than a fish with a bacterial infection--whereas an infected fish would be laying around gasping all day by the time he or she lost their appetite, a parasitized fish will swim around fairly sprightly and show no interest in food. Fortunately, the most common infestations are easy to treat--if treated quickly and correctly, the fish almost always make full recoveries--however, this is a very diverse group and only the most common will be discussed here.

Internal Parasites
- Cestodes and Flagellates
-Nematodes and Roundworms

 Cestodes And Flagellates

Cestodes, or flatworms, are a common and very treatable variety of internal parasite. They live in the fish’s internal organs and muscles--over time, they can cause serious damage to the fish’s vital tissues as they leech energy and nutrients from their host. Flagellates, like hexamita, live in the digestive tract and sap the fish of vital nutrients derived from food.

Symptoms
Physical: Paleness, loss of body mass, ragged fins, distended belly, constipation, white, stringy, or otherwise abnormal feces.
Behavioral: Loss of appetite, the fish slowly becomes more and more lethargic.

Treatment
Early stage treatment: If the fish is still eating, but you have noticed abnormal feces and other physical symptoms, start with anti-parasitic medicated food. This is the most direct way to treat the problem, but the window of opportunity for use of anti-parasitic food quickly closes when as the fish loses their appetite. Look for a medicated food with the ingredients praziquantel and metronidazole.

Later stage treatment: If the fish shows no interest in food, treat the water column with a medicated tablet for internal parasites. When choosing a medication, look for the ingredients praziquantel and metronidazole--if possible, try to find them both together in one treatment, such as Jungle’s Anti-Parasite Medicated Fish Food or Ultra Cure PX. If that is not available, choose the medication with the ingredient praziquantel and use as instructed.

Within the week, you should see the fish start passing the parasites in large bowel movements, after which, their appetite should return. It’s a good idea to start out by feeding fibrous foods--examples of which are listed in the treatment entry for Bloating and Constipation. This should help clean out the fish’s digestive system and get him or her on the right track to recovery. Keep the water extra clean in order to promote healing and prevent secondary infection.





Betta Disease: Inflamed Gills


When a Bettas gills become inflamed, one or both gills will not close properly. They may or may not look red on the inside, and if in the last stages, they would be gasping for air, unable to breathe properly.

A Bettas gills may become inflamed because of bad water conditions, or perhaps from a bacterial infection.

To cure, Isolate any sick Betta with Inflamed Gills, and every third day do a full water change. Every time you change the water, add any sort of bacterial medication you have, I would use either triple sulfur, or tetracycline if available. Get your water tested, if you don’t have a test kit - most LFS (local fish stores) will do it for you.



Betta Disease: Velvet



Velvet Disease or Piscinoödinium or Oödinium pilularis is a parasitic infestation that is very common among both salt and freshwater fish. This parasite is opportunistic and is present in most commercial aquariums. When a fish is stressed due to temperature fluctuations, poor water quality or other stressors they become susceptible to theparasites.

Velvet Disease is classified as a dinoflagellate. It is both a protozoan like the Ich parasites but contains Chlorophyll so it is also considered a type of algae. It survives by finding a stressed host and attaching itself mostly to the gill or fin tissue where it kills the cells and consumes the nutrients directly from the fish. If left untreated it often leads to death. Physically, Velvet looks like a gold, rust or yellow dust, finely sprinkled over the fish. In fact, it can be so difficult to see that often a flashlight is needed to reveal it. This shiny powder appearance has lead to many other names besides Velvet including Rust and Gold Dust Disease.

Besides seeing the parasites directly on your fish you may notice other symptoms including the telltale rubbing against rocks, gravel or other décor. This is common with external parasites and is an attempt by your fish to dislodge the pests from its body. As the disease develops, symptoms may worsen and include lethargy, loss of appetite, labored breathing and clamped fins.

Over a short time, the protozoa detach from their host and enter their free-swimming stage where they divide and multiply many times. This is when they are most vulnerable to medications but may not be obviously present in the tank. It is very important when medicating that you finish the entire course of treatment regardless of weather or not you still see the parasites present. Follow the directions on the medication package closely. Once the parasites multiply they must find a new host (or the same old one) within 24 hours to survive. Because of this life cycle it may appear that your fish has gotten better but really once the Piscinoödinium completes reproduction the worst is yet to come. Now many more protozoa are present in the water and waiting to attack your fish.

If diagnosed early, Velvet is fairly easy to treat. First, you should remove your betta and place him into a hospital tank away from any other fish. Oödinium is highly contagious and keeping the infected fish in a community tank can put others at risk. Make note, the medications for Velvet may be toxic to other species like some fish, snails, invertebrates and aquarium plants as well. Also, any filter media should be removed so as not to eliminate the medication from the water. Next, slowly raise the water temperature to 80˚F – 82˚F [26.6˚C – 27.7˚C]. Because you don’t want to further stress you fish, be sure to only increase the temperature by no more then 2˚F or 1˚C in a 24 hour period. A more rapid temperature fluctuation could cause additional harm. It’s recommended you use a commercial Velvet medication like Mardel’s CopperSafe® or Jungle’s Velvet Guard®. Reducing the amount of light getting into the tanks by keeping the hood lamp off and covering the tank may help to combat the parasites as well.

To prevent the Piscinoödinium parasites from infesting your tank there are some simple precautions all aquarists can tank. First, always quarantine new fish for 3 – 4 weeks before adding them to a community tank. Be sure to always test your water parameters regularly and keep tank water clean by performing frequent and regular water changes. Avoid stressors like temperature and pH fluctuations and provide a nutritionally balanced diet by offering a variety of live and frozen foods.