Betta Splendens Distribution and habitat

 

Betta splendens is a native of Southeast Asia, including the northern Malay Peninsula, central and eastern Thailand, Kampuchea (Cambodia), and southern Vietnam, according to Witte and Schmidt (1992). The species is confined to Thailand, from the Mae Khlong to Chao Phraya basins, the eastern side of the Cardamom highlands (Cambodia), and from the Isthmus of Kra, according to Vidthayanon (2013), a Thai ichthyologist and senior researcher of biodiversity at WWF Thailand. Betta splendens is a native of Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam, according to a report by Froese and Pauly (2019). Due to human introduction, they are now widespread throughout the neighbouring Malay Peninsula and in nearby areas of Sumatra.

Betta splendens often lives in marshes, floodplains, and paddy fields, which are shallow bodies of water with plenty of vegetation. Bettas were initially discovered and then domesticated by humans because of the historical prominence of rice farming throughout Southeast Asia, which offered a suitable environment for them. This environment likely led to the evolution of the lung-like labyrinth organ, which allows Siamese fighting fish like all members of the suborder Anabantoidei to breathe directly from the air. Because bettas can survive and even thrive in more challenging circumstances than other freshwater fish, they have fewer natural predators and rivals.

The abrupt and dramatic variations in water availability, chemistry, and temperature that characterise the tropical environment of the betta's native habitat. While air temperatures can fluctuate between 15 °C (59 °F) and 40 °C (100 °F), the pH of water can range from mildly acidic (pH 6.9) to strongly alkaline (pH 8.2). The capacity of Siamese fighting fish to effectively colonise bodies of water across the world is due to their exceptional adaptability and durability, which allows them to survive in a range of poisonous or harsh settings.

The aquatic vegetation and surface foliage, such as water lilies and fallen leaves, are what wild bettas love to reside in. Assertive males cohabit by claiming dense patches of vegetation as their domain, and the quantity of plants offers protection from predators and a barrier between them. As well as providing shelter to fry at their earliest and most vulnerable phases, such vegetation also provides protection to females during spawning.

Photo by:Shuxuan Cao from Pexels

Read More

Siamese Fighting Fish - Betta Splendens

 

The betta, sometimes referred to as the Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens), is a freshwater fish that is indigenous to Southeast Asia, including Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, and Vietnam. Due to their widespread appeal as pets and their comparatively low maintenance requirements, Betta splendens are among the most widely kept aquarium fish in the world. There are 73 species in the genus Betta, but only one is given the name "betta."

The longest of any fish, Siamese fighting fish are unique to the central plains of Thailand, where they were domesticated for the first time at least 1,000 years ago. They were originally bred for ferocity and used in cockfight-style gambling contests. Theodore Cantor, a Danish doctor, biologist, and botanist, is reported to have received several Bettas from King Rama III (1788–1851), who is credited with introducing them to the rest of the world. When they initially arrived in the West in the late 19th century, ornamental fish quickly gained popularity. The term "designer fish of the aquatic world" has been used for them because of their extensive history of selective breeding, which has resulted in a vast variation of colouring and finnage.

Siamese Fighting Fish

Male betta fish are notoriously aggressive and very territorial, and if they are kept in the same tank without a method of escape, they may fight each other and kill one or both fish. In small areas, female bettas might develop territorial behaviour against one another. Due to their unique labyrinth organ, which is a feature specific to the suborder Anabantoidei and allows for the entry of surface air, bettas are highly tolerant to low oxygen levels and poor water quality.

The Siamese fighting fish is not only well-known across the globe, but it is also Thailand's national aquatic animal. Thailand continues to be the principal producer and supplier of betta fish for the international aquarium industry. The IUCN has classed B. splendens as "vulnerable" because of rising pollution and habitat degradation, despite the fact that they are often used as pets.

Image by endri yana yana from Pixabay Image by Seno Aji from Pixabay

Read More

Ideal water temperature to keep betta fish : maximum temperature for betta fish

Another factor for how long a betta fish will live is the water temperature in the aquarium.
86 degrees Fahrenheit is the absolute maximum, temperature that your betta tank can be at is 30 degrees Celsius or 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

Any higher than that and you are more or less cooking your fish, cooking it slowly, but cooking it none the less. You will notice weird behavior in your betta fish if the water is too warm


Be sure to keep the water at between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, which will boost your betta's immune system and help prevent disease.



Choose and research a good aquarium heater and get a reliable tank thermometer to keep track of the temperature. A 25 watt heater will do the trick!

if you do choose to keep your betta in a small tank it is probably best not to use a heater at all. A tank heater in a small tank can lead to the water temperature rising very rapidly, which is not good for the fighting fish – it can be almost like cooking them.

If you do choose to keep your betta in a small tank, try and locate it in a warm place in your home.

Read More

Betta Imbellis colony - Video

Betta imbellis (Peaceful Betta) can peaceful live with other species.

Read More

Betta Disease: Bacterial Infections

Prevention: Bacterial infections can happen for many reasons, but bad water quality is a happy environment for bacteria to grow in. Contact with dead fish can spread them too, though your bettas shouldn't have that problem unless they're in a community tank.

Symptoms: Betta may have clamped fins, lay at bottom or at surface, not eat, lose its color, turn gray, barely swim around. In more advanced cases, its body

may start developing red patches, open sores and all kinds of nasty looking stuff. Different bacteria affect fish differently. Some will attack the internal organs while others prefer to munch on the skin.

Treatment: The term "bacterial infection" is very broad, and so you'll have to treat a side range of possible infections. Do a full water change. Clean filter and filtering system if you have them and remove any uneaten food rotting. Isolate any bettas with symptoms if in a community tank.

You should also treat the whole tank. There is a wide variety of antibiotics available for fish. Remove carbon from your filters before you add the medications: the carbon would otherwise absorb all the medication. Use Tetracycline or Ampicillin combined with Fungus Eliminator or whatever you find at your store (look for “broad spectrum” antibiotics, though a good one is Kanamycin if you can find some). You can learn more about all of these in the First Aid section. Follow manufacturer’s instructions and don’t stop the treatment until your bettas are well again. Dose carefully and to the correct proportions, and you'll have to redose after you do water changes, which you should do every three days or so.

Read More

Betta disease: Fungal Infections

Currently on the Board of the aquarium often see the topics on diseases of betta fish, many of which are deadly dangerous fungal diseases of betta fish, damage to the aquarium. Please share with your readers some information about this disease. Fungal infection is a common disease common in tropical fish. Because the spores of the fungus is found in the aquarium, these spores will enter and infect fish when the fish are stressed (stress), injury or disease. Poor water quality can cause increased fungal infections on fish in the tank.

Most farmers recognize the signs of a fungal infection from the outside. Most of the lesions are white (smooth, hairy) characterized and commonly referred to as “cotton wool disease cotton wool disease“. When fish severe fungal infections, yeast infections can trace grayed out, even red.

But fortunately, most of the fungus only attacks on the outside of the betta fish tissue and the fungus usually occurs when fish become infected before or wounded, and that explains why the betta fish gets mushrooms need to second part of the treatment. It is just to treat wounds, enhance the health of individuals, combined with fungal treatment. However, there are several species of fungi will infect the internal organs of the fish and then will affect fish health without timely intervention. Fungi are present in most of the aquarium, but to increase the infection conditions for fish in the tank include:

- Poor quality of the water tank.

- Poor tank hygiene.

- Dead fish in the tank or the decomposition of organic matter in the tank.

- Personal injury, older individuals or individuals with other diseases.

The aquarium is often a fungal infection to be checked and thoroughly cleaning the tank, water purification systems, water quality. The tank water quality is good, the fish rarely mushrooms.



Some common fungal disease in fish include:

Fungus cotton wool – Cotton wool disease: 

Cotton wool fungus disease is a general term used to refer to the fungus infection on the skin, fins and fish’s mouth. The white fungus (looks like cotton) usually develop in the areas where fish have been infected before, where the parasite attacked and injured betta fish. These pathogenic fungi often the Saprolegnia and Achyla species. Many other fungi can cause disease and sometimes can find many types of fungi cause disease in fish.

To treat this disease, we can bathe in salt water or use of antifungal drugs containing phenoxyethanol. In some cases the need to treat all the fish in the tank, but if you have some sick individual may own these individuals to treatment. The use of antifungal and antibacterial containing Gentian Violet to apply the stain fungi to betta fish is also a good choice of treatment.

Bring rot – rot Gill:

This fungal disease is not common, but when sick, very dangerous for betta fish and betta fish die if not treated. When infected with this fungus, betta fish abnormal respiratory signs such as breathing air rush to get. The motor bearing and leaves stuck together by mucus and on the appearance of spots. The cause of this disease is due to mushrooms Branchiomyces, can take to rot away. This disease usually occurs when fish are stressed that the main reason is high ammonia or nitrate in the tank. When fish get sick, the treatment is difficult and often unsuccessful. In some cases, can be cured by bathing phenoxyethanol in the long run and increase the amount of oxygen in the tank. So good aquarium care regime is best measures to prevent this.

Fungal infections – Systemic fungal infections:

Fungal infections in tropical fish disease is very rare and is generally very difficult to diagnose and treat. As a result, there is not much knowledge about this disease. A fungus can cause infection this is Icthyophonus. Infected fish very weak, swimming, activities and significantly less food. Betta fish live in water less and fickle susceptible to this disease. However, the disease can be successfully treated by bathing and soaking the fish in blue malachit drugs.

Most farmers aquarium or are faced with fungal infections when this is not the other. Most fungal diseases are successfully treated if detected early and treated properly. There is an obvious thing everyone knows is developing fungi or when fish have poor health, or injury, particularly the aquarium care less. So when your betta fish fungal infection, then you check the quality and make sure that the water in your tank is good, safe and natural for your betta fish farming.

Read More

Betta Disease: External Parasites

 It is possible for a betta fish to contract external parasites in the pet store or from the foot that they are being fed or from other fish being introduced to the tank. It is usually possible to see parasites by looking closely at your fish. In the case of some parasites like anchor worms, you will have no problem spotting them. A fish that has external parasites will show symptoms of needing to scratch itself against anything it can find and it will not behave as it normally would showing signs of being uncomfortable in its tank.

If your betta fish shows signs of external parasites you will want to change out 70% of your fish tank’s water. Changing out a percentage of your fish’s water will help to reduce the population of the parasites and their eggs but it will not remove them all completely so it is important to treat the remaining water. After replenishing the water you will want to treat it with BettaZing, a product designed to clean the water and kill the remaining parasites and their eggs.

Another option:

Do a full water change, and add aquarium salt*. Look for a medication that kills parasites.

Continue treatment every third day until gone.

*TIP: If you use aquarium salt, 100% sea salt is pretty much the same and works just as well. Any salt as long as it does NOT contain Iodine is fine. U can use rock salt, but make sure it is dissolved before use - you don't want your Betta swallowing it.

Read More

Betta Disease: Internal Parasites

Internal parasites are usually introduced to the fish through food--some are often found on live foods and others can hitch a ride on dry foods as eggs. Always carefully rinse any live foods and make sure you get them from a reputable source. Dry foods should be kept sealed and in cool, dry areas--such as a refrigerator. Diagnosing internal parasites can be difficult if you don’t know what to look for, often parasitized fish are treated for bacteria and end up in worse shape than they started out in. One of the key differences between an infected fish and a parasitized fish is that they tend to get sick much more slowly than a fish with a bacterial infection--whereas an infected fish would be laying around gasping all day by the time he or she lost their appetite, a parasitized fish will swim around fairly sprightly and show no interest in food. Fortunately, the most common infestations are easy to treat--if treated quickly and correctly, the fish almost always make full recoveries--however, this is a very diverse group and only the most common will be discussed here.

Internal Parasites
- Cestodes and Flagellates
-Nematodes and Roundworms

 Cestodes And Flagellates

Cestodes, or flatworms, are a common and very treatable variety of internal parasite. They live in the fish’s internal organs and muscles--over time, they can cause serious damage to the fish’s vital tissues as they leech energy and nutrients from their host. Flagellates, like hexamita, live in the digestive tract and sap the fish of vital nutrients derived from food.

Symptoms
Physical: Paleness, loss of body mass, ragged fins, distended belly, constipation, white, stringy, or otherwise abnormal feces.
Behavioral: Loss of appetite, the fish slowly becomes more and more lethargic.

Treatment
Early stage treatment: If the fish is still eating, but you have noticed abnormal feces and other physical symptoms, start with anti-parasitic medicated food. This is the most direct way to treat the problem, but the window of opportunity for use of anti-parasitic food quickly closes when as the fish loses their appetite. Look for a medicated food with the ingredients praziquantel and metronidazole.

Later stage treatment: If the fish shows no interest in food, treat the water column with a medicated tablet for internal parasites. When choosing a medication, look for the ingredients praziquantel and metronidazole--if possible, try to find them both together in one treatment, such as Jungle’s Anti-Parasite Medicated Fish Food or Ultra Cure PX. If that is not available, choose the medication with the ingredient praziquantel and use as instructed.

Within the week, you should see the fish start passing the parasites in large bowel movements, after which, their appetite should return. It’s a good idea to start out by feeding fibrous foods--examples of which are listed in the treatment entry for Bloating and Constipation. This should help clean out the fish’s digestive system and get him or her on the right track to recovery. Keep the water extra clean in order to promote healing and prevent secondary infection.

Read More

Betta Disease: Inflamed Gills

When a Bettas gills become inflamed, one or both gills will not close properly. They may or may not look red on the inside, and if in the last stages, they would be gasping for air, unable to breathe properly.

A Bettas gills may become inflamed because of bad water conditions, or perhaps from a bacterial infection.

To cure, Isolate any sick Betta with Inflamed Gills, and every third day do a full water change. Every time you change the water, add any sort of bacterial medication you have, I would use either triple sulfur, or tetracycline if available. Get your water tested, if you don’t have a test kit - most LFS (local fish stores) will do it for you.

Read More

Betta Disease: Velvet

Velvet Disease or Piscinoödinium or Oödinium pilularis is a parasitic infestation that is very common among both salt and freshwater fish. This parasite is opportunistic and is present in most commercial aquariums. When a fish is stressed due to temperature fluctuations, poor water quality or other stressors they become susceptible to theparasites.

Velvet Disease is classified as a dinoflagellate. It is both a protozoan like the Ich parasites but contains Chlorophyll so it is also considered a type of algae. It survives by finding a stressed host and attaching itself mostly to the gill or fin tissue where it kills the cells and consumes the nutrients directly from the fish. If left untreated it often leads to death. Physically, Velvet looks like a gold, rust or yellow dust, finely sprinkled over the fish. In fact, it can be so difficult to see that often a flashlight is needed to reveal it. This shiny powder appearance has lead to many other names besides Velvet including Rust and Gold Dust Disease.

Besides seeing the parasites directly on your fish you may notice other symptoms including the telltale rubbing against rocks, gravel or other décor. This is common with external parasites and is an attempt by your fish to dislodge the pests from its body. As the disease develops, symptoms may worsen and include lethargy, loss of appetite, labored breathing and clamped fins.

Over a short time, the protozoa detach from their host and enter their free-swimming stage where they divide and multiply many times. This is when they are most vulnerable to medications but may not be obviously present in the tank. It is very important when medicating that you finish the entire course of treatment regardless of weather or not you still see the parasites present. Follow the directions on the medication package closely. Once the parasites multiply they must find a new host (or the same old one) within 24 hours to survive. Because of this life cycle it may appear that your fish has gotten better but really once the Piscinoödinium completes reproduction the worst is yet to come. Now many more protozoa are present in the water and waiting to attack your fish.

If diagnosed early, Velvet is fairly easy to treat. First, you should remove your betta and place him into a hospital tank away from any other fish. Oödinium is highly contagious and keeping the infected fish in a community tank can put others at risk. Make note, the medications for Velvet may be toxic to other species like some fish, snails, invertebrates and aquarium plants as well. Also, any filter media should be removed so as not to eliminate the medication from the water. Next, slowly raise the water temperature to 80˚F – 82˚F [26.6˚C – 27.7˚C]. Because you don’t want to further stress you fish, be sure to only increase the temperature by no more then 2˚F or 1˚C in a 24 hour period. A more rapid temperature fluctuation could cause additional harm. It’s recommended you use a commercial Velvet medication like Mardel’s CopperSafe® or Jungle’s Velvet Guard®. Reducing the amount of light getting into the tanks by keeping the hood lamp off and covering the tank may help to combat the parasites as well.

To prevent the Piscinoödinium parasites from infesting your tank there are some simple precautions all aquarists can tank. First, always quarantine new fish for 3 – 4 weeks before adding them to a community tank. Be sure to always test your water parameters regularly and keep tank water clean by performing frequent and regular water changes. Avoid stressors like temperature and pH fluctuations and provide a nutritionally balanced diet by offering a variety of live and frozen foods.

Read More

Betta Disease: Tuberculosis (TB)

 

Causes and symptoms of fish TB. Mycobacterium marinum. Possible treatment. There is some danger to humans when servicing

Tuberculosis was once a dreaded disease in Europe as well as North America and virtually everyone knew someone who had succumbed to ‘consumption’, the commonly used name for the disease caused by Mycobacterium tuberculosis. Tuberculosis is still widespread in most third world countries and after the fall of the Soviet Union, the numbers of tuberculosis patients have sky rocketed in Russia as well as in many other post-soviet states.

What few of us know, however, is that a bacterium closely related to Mycobacterium tuberculosis called Mycobacterium marinum can be present in wild caught as well as captive bred fish and stay lurking in our aquariums without us ever realizing it. After all, when one of our fishes goes belly up, few of us drag out the Petri dish and starts growing bacterial cultures to find out exactly what caused its demise.

Since Mycobacterium marinum is so closely related to Mycobacterium tuberculosis, the disease it causes is commonly referred to as fish tuberculosis of fish TB. Learning more about fish tuberculosis is recommended for all aquarists since it can be lethal to our beloved fish. What’s even worse, Mycobacterium marinum can spread to the aquarist and cause serious health problems. It can also spread to other animals and is capable of surviving in both soil and water without any host for prolonged periods of time. Don’t be fooled by the word “marinum” – this nasty little organism will survive just as well in freshwater conditions.

Susceptibility
Certain types of fish seem to be more at risk of carrying, or at least succumbing to, fish tuberculosis. This group includes the labyrinth fishes, among which you will find many popular aquarium fishes such as Bettas and Gouramis.

Symptoms in fish
The main symptoms of fish tuberculosis are loss of scales, loss of color, lesions on the body, wasting, and skeletal deformities such as curved spines.

Diagnosing
Looking a slides of infected tissue under a microscope is sometimes enough to recognize Mycobacterium marinum, but in most cases a bacterial culture will be necessary. BothMycobacterium tuberculosis and Mycobacterium marinum are acid fast, which means that they stain bright pink against a blue background.

Treatment
Treating fish tuberculosis is really difficult and euthanizing the fish a probably less painful for the fish than forcing it to go through endless treatments that may not have any effect on the disease. Euthanizing all the fish in the infected aquarium is also the best way of preventing the disease from spreading.

If you decide to try and treat your fish, keep in mind that Mycobacterium marinum can infect you as well. The risk of being infected can however be decreased dramatically by following a few simple safety guidelines. You can read more about this further down in this article.

Fish can be treated with the same drugs as humans get when they become infected by Mycobacterium marinum, e.g. Kanamycin. Since this is a very resilient microbe, normal treatment involves administering at least two different medications over the course of at least three months.

A lot of aquarium problems can be fixed by performing frequent water changes, increasing the water temperature and adding some salt to the water, but fish tuberculosis is not one of them. Raising the water temperature may even worsen the problem since Mycobacterium marinum prefers warm water (their ideal temperature is 30°C).

Prevention
Since curing fish is virtually impossible once the disease begins to manifest, preventative measures are highly important.

Keeping your fish healthy, happy and well-fed will boost their immune system and make it possible for them to handle limited exposure to Mycobacterium marinum.

Wounded or otherwise weakened fish should be moved to quarantine tanks where they can be treated and given time to recuperate, since weak fish that is left in the main aquarium can serve as a breeding ground for all sorts of malicious microorganisms that may eventually grow numerous enough to attack even the healthy fishes.

New fish should ideally be quarantined before you allow it into you main aquarium. Plants, substrate, equipment etcetera should be sterilized to kill of potentially harmful bacteria before being introduced to the aquarium. See the plant section for more info about how to sterilize plants without causing injury to them.

An aquarium that has had an outbreak of fish tuberculosis should be meticulously cleaned out wh bleach and left to dry before you restock it.

Prevention
When aquarists become infected by Mycobacterium marinum, it is usually because the carry out maintenance work when they have cuts or other skin problems on their hands or arms. Our skin is remarkably good at keeping malevolent microorganisms out, but as soon as the skin gets injured, an important part of the body’s defense system has been breached. It doesn’t have to bee a large wound; a simple paper cut or eczema can be enough for Mycobacterium marinum to slip through. When handling an aquarium where you suspect thatMycobacterium marinum may be present, it is consequently important to use protective gloves. You may have a tiny sore that you haven’t even noticed, such as a torn cuticle. Some aquarists prefer to use gloves all the time, or at least when they have damaged skin, since it is impossible to know if Mycobacterium marinum exists in an aquarium before the fish start to show symptoms of fish tuberculosis. You can also catch fish tuberculosis by using your mouth to start a siphon. Washing your hands and lower arms with soap after handling fish and aquariums is naturally always recommended.

Symptoms and treatment
When aquarists become infected with fish tuberculosis, it normally starts as a skin problem. Mycobacterium marinum is a slow growing mycobacterium and it can therefore take several weeks before you notice any symptoms. The first sign is normally small purple lesions or “bumps”. The lesions will grow and spread and Mycobacterium marinum can proceed to destroy the soft tissue under the skin, including tendons and joints. In severe cases, fish tuberculosis can spread to the bones and cause symptoms similar to arthritis.

Most doctors never come in contact with fish tuberculosis and if you show up with some strange lesions on your hands, they might not realize what is causing it and put you on a general oral antibiotic that will not kill Mycobacterium marinum. It is therefore very important to inform your doctor that you are an aquarist and that you may have caught fish tuberculosis or some other disease from your aquarium. Mycobacterium marinum can be successfully treated but only if the right combination of drugs are used. Just as with Mycobacterium tuberculosis, the treatment will normally need to be carried out over the course of several months. In serious cases, intravenous administration of antibiotics may be required.

Read More

Betta Disease: Swim Bladder Disorder

Common Name: Swim Bladder Disorder, Swim Bladder Disease, SBD
Scientific Name: N/A
Description: Irregularity of gas bladder
Symptoms: swimming upside down, unable to right self
Cause: constipation, blockage, infection, tumor
Medications: fasting, Maracyn & Maracyn-Two combo
Ingredients: Erythromycin, Minocycline, Tetracycline
Notes: treatment varies by cause, antibiotics not usually necessary

In a fish’s world, being unable to right ones-self may be a sign of a swim bladder problem commonly referred to as “Swim Bladder Disorder”, “Swim Bladder Disease” or “SBD” for short.

In simple terms, the swim bladder is a gas filled sac located in the betta’s body, posteriorly (toward the tail end). You can usually see it bump out slightly on most Bettas. The swim bladder works very similarly to a SCUBA diver’s BCD (buoyancy control device). When a diver wants to be more buoyant, he fills his vest with air and releases air when he wants to descend. In fish, it’s a little more complicated but you get the basic idea.

SBD is probably caused by overfeeding most often in Bettas. Feeding too much food or foods with a very low moisture content (Betta pellets) may cause pressure in the abdomen cutting off a Betta’s ability to regulate the gasses in the swim bladder. This becomes apparent when the fish can no longer swim upright in the water. The excess food in the stomach may also show itself in the form of bloating around the abdomen like you described. Usually, the easiest fix for this is to fast your Betta for a couple of days until the food passes and the fish is able to regulate the swim bladder again. Once he is back to normal, closely monitor his feedings, making sure only to feed a few pellets a couple times a day. It’s also recommended when feeding dry foods that you soak them in a cup full of tank water for about 10 minutes prior to feeding to allow them to swell to their true size before entering the Betta’s digestive track. Some Bettas are prone to bloating and constipation and may benefit from a diet of mostly live or frozen foods of which a variety are available commercially.

A bacterial infection of the swim bladder may also cause the symptoms described. If you don’t find thatthe Betta is back to normal after a day or two of fasting it may be necessary to treat the fish for the infection using a wide spectrum antibiotic available at most local fish stores. Because antibiotics can cause additional stress to fish, it is recommended to only use them if an infection is strongly suspected. Other signs of infection include lethargy, color loss, loss of appetite, redness under the scales (septicemia) and other secondary infections.

On some occasions Bettas won’t fully heal from their swim bladder disorder and may continue to experience problems righting itself. As long as the fish is able to draw air from the surface and can still eat there is no reason that it can’t continue to live out a full life. Euthanization is rarely needed. You can make your Betta more comfortable by keeping him in a tank away from fin nipping fish or fast swimming fish that may agitate him. Adding some floating plants or other decor may help him rest near the surface when he wishes.

Antibiotic resistance is a problem facing aquarists all over the world. This occurs when bacteria evolve to make newer, stronger strains that cannot be combated by available antibiotics. To avoid creating tougher strains of bacteria be sure to carefully follow the directions on the medicine package and to never stop or change medications part way through treatment unless your betta is having a dangerous reaction to them. As with any disease, remove your sick fish from the community tank and isolate him for treatment in a hospital tank. Never medicate healthy fish.

Read More

Betta Disease: Popeye

Common Name: Popeye
Scientific Name: Exophthalmia
Description: Symptom of infection
Symptoms: swelling and protrusion of one or both eyes
Cause: bacterial, viral or parasitic
Medications: Maracyn, Maracyn-Two combined
Ingredients: Erythromycin, Minocycline, Tetracycline

Popeye, also called exophthalmia is a symptom, not a disease in itself and has many possible causes. Popeye is characteristically diagnosed by the swelling or protrusion of one or both eyes.

Curing popeye can be difficult if the source is unknown. The origin can range from bacterial, viral, parasitic or as an effect of fish tuberculosis. It’s often impossible to determine which has infected a given fish. Answers may lie in other symptoms. When you first notice popeye it’s best to observe your sick fish and other tankmates for other signs of disease that may offer a clue. For example, if the popeye is accompanied by redness under the scales you may deduce that the source is bacterial. There is no sure way to determine the cause and your best guess may be all you have.

Generally when the origin is unknown aquarists begin by treating with a broad-spectrum antibiotic like Tetracycline or a combination of gram-positive and gram-negative antibiotics like Mardel’s Maracyn and Maracyn-Two that contain Erythromycin and Minocycline respectively.

Exophthalmia itself is not contagious but the infection that caused it may be so it’s best to treat any sick fish in a hospital tank away from other healthy tankmates. The original infection is most commonly caused by poor water quality and measure to improve the tank water should be taken immediately. Poor water quality does is not usually obvious to the naked eye. Your water may seem to be clean in appearance but there could be toxins present like ammonia, nitrite and elevated nitrate levels. The only way to determine the presence of these toxins is to test with the appropriate water test kits. Other stressors may have contributed to the infection like fluctuating temperature or pH or harassment from other tankmates.

To avoid diseases like popeye, keep up with yourwater changes, frequently test your water and never introduce new fish to the tank without first quarantining them in a separate tank for 3 – 4 weeks before exposing them to healthy fish.

The lasting effects of popeye vary from a full recovery to cloudy, swollen or even a missing eye. It’s not believed that these effects inhibit the quality of life for the fish. Even in the case of a missing eye, the fish can live a full and normal life. If your fish looses his eye be sure to keep your water very clean to avoid any further infection while the socket is healing.

Antibiotic resistance is a problem facing aquarists all over the world. This occurs when bacteria evolve to make newer, stronger strains that cannot be combated by available antibiotics. To avoid creating tougher strains of bacteria be sure to carefully follow the directions on the medicine package and to never stop or change medications part way through treatment unless your betta is having a dangerous reaction to them. As with any disease, remove your sick fishfrom the community tank and isolate him for treatment in a hospital tank. Never medicate healthy fish.

Read More

Betta Disease : Ich

Common Name: Ich
Scientific Name: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis
Description: Parasite
Symptoms: white spots on body appear to look like sugar sprinkled on fish, darting, rubbing body against tank decor, sometimes no symptoms other than spots
Cause: stress, poor water quality, most common in water under 78˚F [25.5˚C]
Medications: RidIch+ by Kordon
Ingredients: formalin, malachite green

Notes: Because the Ich parasite is only visibly present 4 out of the 7 day lifecyle it is important to continue to dose for the full recommended number of days

Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) is a contagious parasitic infestation that commonly affects both marine and freshwater fish. The Ich protozoan may be present in the water without you even knowing it. It often only preys on fish that are stressed due to poor water quality or other stressors.

A fish that has the Ich parasites on him will look as though he has been sprinkled with little granules of sugar or salt. A mild case may only turn up two or three small white dots but a severe case could leave your entire fish dotted with white parasites.

A fish with Ich may become twitchy and try to rub its body up along the tank décor or gravel. In severe cases the fish may become lethargic or loose it’s appetite. It’s not uncommon, however for the fish to act pretty normal despite the parasites being present.

Ich is quite easy to treat but left too long can be fatal. It’s very important to understand the life cycle of the Ich parasite in order to treat it properly. The protozoan has a three-part life cycle of which it is only vulnerable to treatment for approximately two days out of its life. Because some fish are more sensitive to medications then others I am going to go through the proper treatment for a Betta. Some fish are more delicate (like scaleless fish) and may need a modified form of treatment.


Trophont Phase- [approx 4 days] The Trophont is the adult protozoan that is feeding on your fish. This is what you are looking at when you see the “granules” attached to your fish. The parasites are not susceptible to treatment during this phase.

Tomont Phase- [approx 1 day] The Tomont occurs when the Trophont [above] releases from your fish and falls away. It then begins to divide hundreds of times in your tank but is too small to be seen by the naked eye. To the inexperienced aquarist it may appear that your fish is healed but the protozoan is still not susceptible to treatment during this phase. It is just reproducing and will attack your fish more severely if not handled in the next phase.

Thernont Phase- [approx 2 days] This is the phase where the microscopic parasites are free swimming around your tank and are most vulnerable to treatment. While they are looking for a host it is important to be medicating your tank. With proper treatment the parasites will die off during this stage before feeding on your fish and starting the cycle again.

To treat your betta it’s important to know that the Ich parasites are contagious and the medication is fairly strong. It’s best to move your fish to a hospital tank if he has tank mates so as not to expose them to more parasites or unnecessary medication. The medicine used may kill helpful nitrifying bacteria so activated carbon filters should be removed during the treatment process.

The Ich parasites thrive in cooler water below a temperature of 78˚F [25.5˚C] so slowly raise the temperature in the tank to around 80˚F – 82˚F [26.6˚C – 27.7˚C] over the next 24 to 48 hours.

Carefully follow the directions on the medicine bottle remembering to perform 25% water changes before each dose and to continue dosing for several days past the visible signs of the disease.

Since fish generally become infected due to stressors it’s imperative that you determine what may have caused the fish to get sick to begin with. Check your water parameters and make any corrections as needed.

Read More

Betta fish Fin Disease

Common Name: Fin Rot
Scientific Name: Aeromonas sp. or Pseudomonas sp.
Description: gram-negative rod bacteria
Symptoms: loss of fin tissue, black or bloody fin tips
Cause: poor water conditions, exposure to toxins
Medications: Mardel’s Maracyn-Two, Aquatronics’ Kanacyn
Ingredients: Minocycline, Kanamiacyn
Notes: Can be mild or severe, may require medication

The difference between fin loss and fin rot are not always obvious but there is, indeed, a difference. Generally, we distinguish between the two based on its cause.

Fin loss is caused by physical damage incurred by sharp tank decorations, snagged fins, or nipping from other fish. It happens when something actually tears the fin tissue.

Fin rot is the result of a bacterial infection, which leaves the fins tattered, bloody or blackened. Entire portions of the fins may fall off or go missing in the tank. The reason we distinguish between the two is because the treatment for each can be quite different.

Fin rot is a gram-negative bacterial infection usually caused by poor water conditions. It is probably the number one most common betta ailment and chances are if you own bettas you will eventually deal with fin rot. Fin rot is most common in uncycled tanks where bettas are exposed to ammonia or nitrite. It can be caused by elevated nitrate levels in cycled tanks and may be caused by fluctuating temperatures and pH levels as well. Essentially, these toxins or fluctuations stress the betta, weakening his immune system, leaving him susceptible to bacterial infections.

The most common signs of fin rot are a rapid loss of fin tissue, bloody fin tips or blackened fin edges. In darker colored bettas these symptoms may be difficult to spot. Upon speculation of fin rot you should immediately check your water parameters to determine the origin. Successfully curing fin rot is dependent on fixing the cause. Check for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph andtemperature. The ammonia and nitrite levels should be at 0 ppm [parts per million] and nitrate should be under 20 ppm, maximum. The pH levels and water temperature should be stable with little or no fluctuation from the days before. Remember, toxins like ammonia and nitrite become exponentially more significant in alkaline water [pH above 7.0] and thus much more dangerous and likely to stress your betta. This doesn’t mean you have to bring the pH down. Drastically adjusting the pH could cause more stress. It’s far better to leave the pH stable and to maintain little or no toxins in the water instead. While your betta has fin rot, it is helpful to increase the frequency of your water changes and add ammonia or nitrite neutralizers, like Kordon’s AmQuel-Plus, if necessary.

If the fin rot is not severe, meaning there is still more then 1/2 of the fin left, then usually clean water and careful observation will due as treatment. It’s crucial that the betta not be exposed to any toxins while healing from the disease. New fin growth is very fragile and it’s not uncommon to have several relapses after healing begins. You may also notice the fins grow back slightly curled. While this doesn’t always occur it is normal and in no way hurts the fish.


Bacterial Fin Rot in Betta Fish
If you suspect the fin rot is severe the betta may need your help to recover through use of medication and clean water. Because fin rot is bacterial in nature you will need a gram-negative antibiotic. I recommend Mardel’s Maracyn-Two [Minocycline] or if quite severe you may want to use Kanacyn [Kanamiacyn] or an equivalent wide spectrum antibiotic. As mentioned before, all the antibiotics in the world won’t cure your betta if the cause is not corrected. Be sure to test your water and make any changes as necessary.

Use caution when selecting a medication for your betta. Avoid any herbal tonics or remedies that contain Melaleuca like Melafix or Bettafix. These medications are mostly antiseptics and may help fin regeneration after the bacterial infection has cleared but will do little to help initially. If your betta is sick enough to need a real antibiotic then give him one.

Antibiotic resistance is a problem facing aquarists all over the world. This occurs when bacteria evolve to make newer, stronger strains that cannot be combated by available antibiotics. To avoid creating tougher strains of bacteria be sure to carefully follow the directions on the medicine package and to never stop or change medications part way through treatment unless your betta is having a dangerous reaction to them. As with any disease, remove your sick fish from the community tank and isolate him for treatment in a hospital tank. Never medicate healthy fish.

Common Name: Fin Loss
Scientific Name: none
Description: physical damage
Symptoms: split fins or pin holes
Cause: sharp tank decor, snagging, strong filter intake, fin-nippy fish
Medications: none Ingredients: none
Notes: Can be mild or severe, can be fixed by removing the danger and clean water- May be confused with fin rot


Split Fin in Betta Fish
Fin loss is usually easy to avoid and easy to fix. It can be avoided by checking all tank décor before adding it to the aquarium. Because betta fins are so fragile, they easily snag on plastic plants or sharp rocks or driftwood. An easy test can be done to avoid sharp objects. Simply run a pair of women’s pantyhose or nylons over the tank décor. If the nylons don’t snag or rip, they will be suitable for a betta tank. In many cases, the object can be filed down or sharp parts can be removed. Often plastic plants will cause fin loss so you may find better luck with silk or most live plants instead.

Of course, it’s best to not add fin-nipping fish to your tank. Bettas become easy pray for quicker swimming and aggressive fish. Barbs and most tetras should be avoided in your betta tank. If you notice a fish nipping your betta you should remove the fish or the bettas as soon as possible because nipped fins can become infected and treatment could become more complicated.

Betta fin tissue can heal quickly and most mild to moderate spits or holes can heal themselves without use of any medications or tank additives. It is prudent to keep your tank water clean when these minor injuries occur so as not to allow infections to develop

Care & Treatment of Fin Rot 

Fin Rot is one of the most common, yet preventable aquarium fish diseases. It often occurs simultaneously with other diseases and is caused by a bacterial infection.

Symptoms
One of the earliest symptoms is ragged fins. As the disease progresses, the fins become increasingly shorter and some whiteness appears on the edges. Cotton Wool, a secondary disease, may develop, and will manifest as a fuzzy growth on the fins. If untreated, the base of the fins will become red and inflamed, with spotty, bloody patches.

Causes
Fin Rot occurs when the Betta is distressed due to poor water quality, overfeeding, uneaten food, overcrowding or rough handling. If the water is not changed regularly, the leftover food particles and feces will decompose and contaminate the water. If there are too many Bettas or too much food in the tank, even regular water changes may not prevent the disease. The resultant stress on the Betta lowers his immunity, thus making him very susceptible to attack from the bacteria present in the water. Only in rare instances will Bettas develop Fin Rot when a tank is impeccably maintained.

Treatment
Once Fin Rot sets in, change the water and examine the conditions within the aquarium. Remove everything from the aquarium and wash all the decorations and rocks with hot water. Do not use soap. Follow instructions for changing the water in the aquarium.

Since Fin Rot is a bacterial infection, medication is available to cure it. Some medications successfully used to cure fin rot include Jungle Fungus Eliminator and Tetracycline.

Fin Rot is very contagious. Separate the fish that appear uncontaminated from the diseased fish. Place the uncontaminated Betta in a separate quarantine tank until you are sure they are healthy. To prevent the disease from being transferred to your healthy Betta, do not share nets between the tanks. Also, ensure that you wash everything used in handling either the sick or the quarantined Betta properly in hot water before using it with any other fish.

Prevention
The best way to treat Fin Rot is to prevent it from occurring. Here are some helpful tips:

Water & Habitat
Change the water in the tank every one to two weeks and thoroughly clean all decorations, rocks, etc. without using soap. Instead, purchase a cleaner formulated specifically for this purpose from your local pet store or fish dealer.

It is also important to check the pH and the temperature of the water on a regular basis. All fish, particularly those with long flowing fins such as the Betta, have a tendency to contract Fin Rot when the temperature of the water is either too low or too warm for sustained periods of time.

Food
Check that your fish’s food is correct for his specific diet and be extra careful not to overfeed your Betta. It is far better to give your fish smaller quantities of high quality food. Overfeeding will allow excess leftover food to remain in the water, which in turn will increase the concentration of bacteria in your tank.

Handling
Be gentle and cautious when handling your Betta. They are easily stressed if they are carelessly handled. Keeping the habitat controlled, clean and stress free is the best way to ensure your Betta's health and your continued enjoyment of this beautiful, showy fish.

Read More

Betta Fish Disease: Dropsy

Dropsy is a very common, very fatal disease that attacks the betta fish's internal organs. Very little is known about dropsy, except that it causes kidney failure. No one knows what causes dropsy, but here is what we do know.

Symptoms:

Dropsy is very easy to diagnose in a betta fish. Your betta fish will have raised scales that look like tiny ridges along his body. This is easiest to see from the top of the fish. Your betta will also be very swollen in it's stomach region. This is due to fluids building up under the skin. Essentially, your betta fish will look like a pine cone.

Treatment:

Unfortunately there is no cure for dropsy. In very rare cases, Tetracylene, Kanacyn, broad spectrum anti-biotics, and other betta medicines have been known to work, but usually by the time symptoms appear the internal organs have been too damaged. Any betta exhibiting signs of dropsy should be immediately isolated. Epsom salts may be added to your betta's water to make him more comfortable, as Epsom salts will lower the amount of fluid retention, but this is not a cure. If your betta fish does have dropsy, it will usually die in about five days, although it has been known to take up to fifteen days. If your betta does show dropsy symptoms, begin treatment immediately.

Prevention:

Although we don't know what causes dropsy, there have been some suggestions that live food is linked to dropsy. Feeding your fish non-live food may prevent your betta from ever getting dropsy. Also, warm, clean water and a nutritious diet is essential to a betta fish's health and will prevent most diseases.

Read More

Betta Breeding

Bettas are bubble-nest breeders and are frequently bred in aquarium. If you wish to try breeding Betta you will have to start by obtaining a pair. The best method is usually to get at least two female Betta and two males. It is important that you select healthy looking fish with good external features. By preparing at least four Bettas and getting them into breeding condition you will have replacements if a couple turns out to be incompatible, or if any Betta turn our to be unhealthy or incapable of breeding. To get your Bettas into breeding condition should keep them in a suitable environment and follow all the general guidelines for keeping Bettas, such as ideal water temperatures, suitable pH levels etcetera. Feed the potential parents live or frozen meaty foods twice a day or more.

Start off by keeping all four individual Bettas isolated, but still able of noticing each other during 3-4 days. You can also use another method where you isolate the fish completely from other Bettas during four days. Somehow isolation seems to trigger spawning in Bettas, but we still do not know why.

A 2.5-10 gallon aquarium is large enough to function as a breeding aquarium for Bettas, as long as the water can be 5 inches deep. Decorate the aquarium with floating aquatic plants, and also insert a few clay pots as hiding places. The water temperature should be kept constant between 80 and 82 degrees F. A cover is usually necessary to keep the water and air at a constant temperature, and if the room is subjected to draft a cover is absolutely necessary since any draft can cause water movements that will disturb the Gourami bubble-nest.


Most Betta breeders choose to add the male Betta to the breeding aquarium a few hours before the female Betta is introduced. This way, the male will get some time to explore the breeding aquarium and establish his territory. When you have placed the female Betta in the breeding aquarium you will usually have to wait no more than a few hours before you can watch the male Betta build a beautiful bubble-nest. The female Betta will display dark vertical bars on her body, and this is a sign that shows that she is ready to spawn. Even if the Betta pair is highly compatible and ready to spawn, they will fight each other in the breeding aquarium. The two will even try to tear up each others fins, and this might look scary but actually makes sense from an evolutionary perspective. By fighting each other, both sexes prove that they are strong individuals that will pass on good DNA to the new generation. A Betta does not want to waste time and energy by breeding with an unhealthy fish with genetic defects.

If your Betta pair still haven’t spawn within tree days after the female Betta was placed in the breeding aquarium, the pair is not compatible and will not breed. Take away the female Betta and insert your other female Betta to the breeding aquarium. If the male Betta never got started on his bubble-nest building, it is probably something wrong with him and you should remove him from the breeding aquarium instead and insert the other male. You can also remove both fishes and give the other pair a try.

Hopefully, one of the possible combinations will prove successful, and eggs will be deposited, fertilized and placed in the bubble-nest. As soon as this has happened, you should remove the female Betta from the breeding aquarium. She will most likely be suffering from wounds from the courting period, and should therefore be placed in a medicated container. The male should be left to care for the offspring, and not be removed until the fry is free swimming. It is a good idea to place him in a medicated container as well. Newly hatched Betta fry will get enough nutrition from their yolk sacs and should not be fed during the first day. When the yolk sacs have been consumed, instinct will draw the fry towards moving objects in the aquarium. In the wild, Betta fry eat micro organism and your Betta fry should therefore ideally be fed vinegar eels or similar. Vinegar eels are microscopic nematodes and small enough for young Betta fry to consume. When the Betta fry are a few days old, you can start feeding them newly hatched brine shrimp. Small daphnia, grindle worms and other types of micro-worms are also suitable

Read More

Betta Disease

DISEASE


The majority of diseases are caused by bad water conditions. If you take care of your water quality by doing frequent waterchanges, and house and care for your betta sufficiently, disease will be scarcely a problem. However, disease does happen, and it is good to be prepared incase it does. Having a few medications on hand is a good idea.


FIN ROT


Fin rot is probably be the most common disease for Bettas. Fin Rot is manly caused by dirty water, but it can also be caught if they damage their fins (such as tearing them on a sharp ornament), from here, it is open to bacteria, and fin rot may take hold. It is contagious, so keep any Betta's water away from healthy Bettas. If you happen to have a divided tank that allows Betta's to share the water, treat all the Betta's involved. To tell if your Betta has Fin Rot, his tail will look torn, or with bits missing. The edges may have either a white or black lining. To treat Fin Rot, any bacterial treatment will work. Adding aquarium salt could help too. IAL (Indian Almond Leaves) are always recommended, as they hold anti-bacterial properties.

TIP: If you use aquarium salt, 100% sea salt is pretty much the same and works just as well. Any salt as long as it does NOT contain Iodine is fine. I use rock salt, but make sure it is dissolved before use. Use at a dosage of 1 tsp per 20L. Once Fin Rot is treated, fins should grow back, but there is a chance they will not be quite the same as before, depending on how several the case was.

PINHOLE FIN ROT

Pinhole finrot is much the same as finrot, but rather than frayed, torn edges, it appears as pinholes in a Bettas fins. Treat the same as finrot.

FIN MELT


Finmelt is another form of finrot. Rather than the fins rotting, the fins melt, and look like melted plastic. Finmelt is extremely aggressive, and should be hit straight away with heavy medications. Triple sulfur or tetracycline is a good choice.





















VELVET


Velvet is a parasite that is very contagious.


It can be hard to spot, but if you shine a torch on your Betta and it looks as if it is covered with a fine gold or rusty dust, then sadly you have Velvet to deal with.


Bettas with Velvet will act quite sick: they will have clamped fins, and will scratch against anything such as gravel, tank walls, or decorations. They may also have a loss of appetite and colour.






To treat Velvet, keep the Betta in the dark (throw a towel over the tank), raise the heat a bit, and medicate with any medication that cures Velvet. Aquarium salt will also help*. IAL is always recommended.






The reason you black out the tank is because velvet requires light for their life cycle. Cut the light, they cannot grow, the medication kills them, and because of lack of light - new parasites cannot start another lifecycle.






Sanitize any nets you use, along with anything your fish has had contact with.






* TIP: If you use aquarium salt, 100% sea salt is pretty much the same and works just as well. Any salt as long as it does NOT contain Iodine is fine. I use rock salt, but make sure it is dissolved before use.



















SWIM BLADDER DISEASE


Swim bladder disease is not contagious, and can be caused by many things, usually overfeeding. The Swim Bladder is an organ located near its back. It helps the Betta to swim properly.









Your Betta may have gotten Swim Bladder Disease if you dropped him/her or handled too roughly. If this is the cause, it can not be cured.


When a Betta has Swim Bladder, he will either float vertically at the top of the water, or lie on the tank bottom. They will have difficultly swimming, and may or may not have a kink in its back to make it 'S' shaped.


Double Tail Betta's are more prone to Swim Bladder as they have a shorter body than singled tailed Bettas.


There isn’t really a treatment, most of the time, it sorts itself out. It’s a good idea to put your Betta in a tank longer than deep, or lower the water level. This helps them to be able to reach the surface.


Fast your betta for 24-48 hrs, and the following day, offer a pea.


Sometimes Bettas will live with SBD for their lives, but don’t worry: they aren’t in pain, just have a little difficulty maneuvering.













DROPSY


Not much is known about Dropsy, and it is probably the most fatal Betta disease. Insufficient water quality, and disease from live food have both been blamed for causing dropsy, although there isn’t proof that they are the sole cause.


Dropsy is when a Bettas kidney fails. Fluid builds up, and causes the scales to be raised like a pine-cone.


Dropsy isn't contagious, but the bacteria that caused it is. Any Betta with Dropsy should be isolated from all other livestock. S


adly, they will die within the maximum of 15 days, there is no cure.













ICK


Also known as white spot, Ick is a parasite, which is very contagious.


Bettas with ick look as if they have been sprinkled with salt. They may be less active, have a loss of appetite, clamped fins, and could be scratching on anything that could be found.


To cure, raise the temperature of the water to 30ºC (85º F), and add any medication that cures whitespot/ick. It should be gone within a week.


If your Betta is in a small tank, you cannot raise the temperature. Do not put heaters in tanks less than 20L, as it could easily boil your fish! If this is the case, do a full water change, and add your medication and Aquarium Salt*.


The reason you raise the temperature is because the Ick parasite is sensitive to heat, and will detach itself from the fish and swim off in the water; there, the medication will kill it.






* TIP: If you use aquarium salt, 100% sea salt is pretty much the same and works just as well. Any salt as long as it does NOT contain Iodine is fine. I use rock salt, but make sure it is dissolved before use - you don't want your Betta swallowing it.









POPEYE


Popeye is a bacterial infection, and is caused by poor water conditions. As you can probably tell by its name, the eyes of a fish with pop eye bulge, until they are popping out.


To treat, do a waterchange, add Indian Almond Leaves (IAL) if available, as they contain anti-bacterial properties. You can also add anti-bacterial medication. Melafix may be of use for mild cases. When using Melafix for bettas, use at half the recomended dosage rate.. as Melafix can be harmful. Bettafix is the same as Melafix, just at a dilated dosage.


When cured, the eye will deflate, and sink back into its socket.











TUBERCULOSIS


Easily the most deadly Betta disease, even though many people haven't even heard of it. It can imitate may other diseases (such as Popeye) and that makes it hard to find. Often, the Betta has a twisted spine and is really skinny, even if it is being fed normally. It can take up to six months to take affect, and when it does, it attacks internal organs such as livers and kidneys.


This is the only fish disease that is contagious to humans! The good news is, unless you have a very infected tank, and stick your hands right in, while you have a big cut, along with a weak immune system, you won't catch it (so the chances are slim). Even if you did catch it, you won't die, just get a nasty skin infection which will take a long time to heal. It is very rare for humans to catch. Tuberculosis can be linked to contaminated live food, or eating dead fish that had previously had it.


There is no cure.








INFLAMED GILLS


When a Bettas gills become inflamed, one or both gills will not close properly. They may or may not look red on the inside; and if in the last stages, they would be gasping for air, unable to breathe properly.


A Bettas gills may become inflamed because of bad water conditions, or perhaps from a bacterial infection.


To cure, Isolate any sick Betta with Inflamed Gills, and every third day do a full water change. Every time you change the water, add any sort of bacterial medication you have, I would use either triple sulfur, or tetracycline if available. Get your water tested, if you don’t have a test kit - most LFS (local fish stores) will do it for you.













BACTERIAL INFECTION


Bacterial infections are normally a sign of high ammonia in the water. This comes down to not enough waterchanges.


Bacterial infections are very contagious. When a Betta has this disease, they may have clamped fins, they could lay at the bottom of their tank, be inactive, have a loss of appetite, and show colour loss. If left untreated, they will have red patches and open sores all over their body.


To treat, do a full water change. Remove any uneaten food (this should have been done as soon as your Betta had finished eating!) Isolate any Betta who is infected. As for medications, use any bacterial treatment you can find.


Using a cotton bud, you can “paint” on Multi-cure onto the affected sore. Three times a day is ideal, try to do it at least once daily. Do this is a Chinese container and filled just past their body, or in a mesh net (preferred). This worked wonders for the guy pictured below.


Continue treating until your Betta is healthy again.










FUNGAL INFECTION


If you notice your Betta has white cottony patches on its body, and that he may or may not be less active, may have stopped eating, may be paler than usual along with clamped fins; then your Betta has a fungal infection. Fungal infections are contagious, so isolate any Betta to be found with fungus. To treat; do a full water change and add any Fungus medication you can find. Do this treatment every third day, until cured.













EXTERNAL PARASITES


External parasites are easy to find, and magnified glass helps to see them better. A Betta who has external parasites will dart and scratch itself on whatever it can. External Parasites are usually brought in from new fish. To cure, do a full water change, and add aquarium salt*. Look for a medication that kills parasites.


Continue treatment every third day until gone.






*TIP: If you use aquarium salt, 100% sea salt is pretty much the same and works just as well. Any salt as long as it does NOT contain Iodine is fine. I use rock salt, but make sure it is dissolved before use - you don't want your Betta swallowing it.






A picture with a Betta with External Parasites circled in green.







INTERNAL PARASITES


Internal Parasites are a real pest (like all other diseases). They can come through from introducing new fish to the aquarium, or on live food.


The behavior of Betta's with internal parasites does not usually change, but they appear to get getting thinner even though they eat normally.


To treat, do a full water change, then medicate with a wormer. Using Big L, a pig and poultry wormer, also works well - but at a fraction of the price of a Betta wormer. Use Big L at a dosage of 1mL per 7L of water. Do a water change every three days, and retreat, until g

Read More